Electrician To Your DoorNewcastle
Warm LED plinth lighting under kitchen units

Indoors and out

Lighting
Installation
Newcastle

Downlights set out before the plasterer arrives, strip lighting where the fitting never shows, and outdoor schemes specified to survive weather off the North Sea.


Decide the lighting before the plastering

The regret we hear about most is lighting decided after the ceiling went up. Downlight spacing, how many circuits switch separately, which fittings dim and which do not, whether the island gets pendants or spots — every one of those is straightforward while a ceiling is open and awkward afterwards.

It is also considerably cheaper. Putting a second switched circuit in at first fix is a few minutes. Retro-fitting the same thing through a skimmed and painted ceiling is a day of work and a decorator behind it. If any building work is happening, that is the moment for the lighting conversation, not once the scaffolding has gone.

Downlights, done with some thought

Spacing is the usual casualty, normally because somebody has defaulted to a uniform grid and put in twice what the room needed. Lighting a space well is a question of where the light falls, not how many apertures end up overhead. Positions go up in pencil for you to look at first, worked around the joists and held back from the perimeter where fittings do little except wash the wall.

The second problem is thermal. Sealed fittings with the driver bonded in mean the whole assembly is scrap the day the driver expires, and expire it will. Stuff insulation tight around them and that day arrives a great deal sooner. You will be told which compromise you are accepting rather than having the cheapest option fitted and discovering the consequence three years later.

Strip, plinth and concealed detail

Concealed strip is what lifts a kitchen, a staircase or a run of shelving, and it is also the easiest thing to get wrong. Set too near the edge and you see a row of individual diodes reflected in the floor. Pushed back far enough and the light simply appears, with no visible origin anywhere.

Drivers need to live somewhere reachable, because the driver is the part that fails. Putting one behind a permanently fixed panel is storing up an argument for later. That gets planned in rather than discovered.

Outside, and the coast in particular

Anything outside deserves a circuit of its own and a daylight sensor rather than a clock, because a clock falls out of step as the evenings move and you spend the year adjusting it. Drive bollards, door lanterns, up-and-down wall fittings — none of it is difficult, and all of it turns out better when the cable route is agreed before the paving and planting arrive.

On the coast at Tynemouth, Cullercoats and Whitley Bay there is an extra factor. Salt-laden air is unkind to external fittings, glands and anything mounted on an exposed elevation, and a fitting specified for a sheltered inland garden will not last out there. Choosing properly for the location is the difference between ten years and two winters.

Lighting work we take on

  • Ceiling layouts pencilled up before a hole is cut
  • Concealed strip to plinths, coves and handrails
  • Heavy pendants and chandeliers fixed to structure
  • Extra switching, two-way and intermediate work
  • Dimmers chosen against the lamps going in
  • Lanterns, bollards and up-down wall fittings outside
  • Daylight-sensing and movement-triggered switching
  • Higher corrosion ratings for seafront elevations

How it runs

What actually happens

  1. Understand the room

    What happens in it, who uses it and when. That shapes a lighting scheme far more than anything in a manufacturer catalogue.

  2. Mark the ceiling

    Every position goes up in pencil for you to stand under and judge. Moving one now is nothing; moving one afterwards is a plasterer.

  3. Put it in

    Fittings hung, circuits pulled, anything heavy anchored into timber rather than board, and every driver left somewhere a hand can reach it later.

  4. Set it up

    Dimmers proved against the lamps that actually went in, sensors and daylight switches adjusted, and the lot tested before handover.

Recent projects

Jobs like this one

Taken on site the day each of these wrapped up.

Warm LED plinth lighting under kitchen units
Unbroken plinth run beneath the units, set back enough that the floor reads as one soft band rather than a row of dots.
Crystal chandelier hung from a dining room ceiling
Weight taken by a joist rather than a plasterboard rose, then hung at a height that clears the room properly.
LED strip lighting concealed under a timber stair handrail
Concealed run tucked beneath the handrail — the treads are what you notice, never the fitting.
Recessed downlights across a newly plastered open-plan ceiling
Recessed fittings positioned across a through kitchen and living space once the dividing wall came out.
Starburst LED ceiling light fitted above a dining table
Flush starburst re-centred over the table, which meant relocating the rose before anything went up.
Brass bulkhead wall lights either side of a mirror in a green tiled cloakroom
Paired brass bulkheads flanking the mirror, fed from a switched way of their own.
Two coach lanterns lit either side of an arched porch
Matched lanterns either side of an arched entrance, ganged to one way and driven by daylight level.
Bollard lights lighting a block paved driveway at dusk
Bollards the length of a new drive from a single outdoor circuit, triggered by light rather than by clock.
Wall lights and mirrors being installed during a washroom refurbishment
Washroom refit — mirror lighting and extraction installed alongside the tiling rather than queued behind it.
Infrared patio heater fixed to brickwork under an awning
Radiant heater and festoon over sheltered seating, buying an outdoor area a couple more months of use.
Smart heating thermostat showing a target temperature
Heating controls rewired back at the board first, then the thermostat commissioned and paired.
Sockets, light and a small consumer unit inside a garden room
Outbuilding supply run underground in armoured cable, ending in its own board with power and light inside.
First fix wiring through floor joists with circuits chalked on brickwork
Cabling threaded through joists on a stripped property, with every run marked and agreed before it went in.
LED batten lighting across the ceiling of a commercial workshop
Battens across a workshop ceiling, held above the gantry line and sheeted so the trades below never stopped.

FAQs

Asked about this a lot

How many downlights is the right number?

Fewer than most people assume. It comes down to ceiling height, the beam angle of the fitting and what the room is actually for, but a kitchen laid out well usually needs considerably less than the grid people picture. Positions get set out on site so you can look at them before anything is cut.

Can you hang a heavy chandelier?

Yes. The fixing is where these succeed or fail. Weight has to land on a joist or a noggin put in for the purpose, never on a plasterboard rose. Drop length gets set against the room and the furniture underneath rather than left at whatever came coiled in the packaging.

What keeps killing my LED downlights?

Nine times in ten it is the driver failing rather than the lamp, and integrated fittings bond the two together so the entire thing becomes scrap. Poor ventilation above the ceiling shortens driver life, and dimmers never matched to the lamps will finish them early. Worth diagnosing rather than replacing the same fitting twice.

Can outdoor lights come on automatically?

Yes, and a photocell beats a timer for anything you want on from dusk, because a timer drifts as the seasons move and you end up resetting it constantly. Sensors suit security lighting where you want it triggered rather than burning all evening.

Does coastal property need different fittings?

It does. Salt air attacks external fittings, glands and fixings at Tynemouth, Cullercoats and Whitley Bay in a way it simply does not a few miles inland. Specifying to a higher corrosion rating costs a little more up front and saves replacing the lot after two winters.

Do outdoor lights need their own circuit?

Usually worth it. Outdoor circuits are the ones most likely to develop a fault from water ingress over time, and keeping them on their own way means a problem outside does not take the indoor lighting with it.

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Call the team0191 934 0119
  • CoveringNewcastle, Gateshead, North Tyneside and out to Ponteland, Cramlington, Blyth, Prudhoe and the coast at Tynemouth and Whitley Bay.
  • FlatsTyneside flats a speciality — shared stairs, split supplies and meters that live in somebody else's cupboard.
  • LandlordsInspection reports, multi-let certification, remedials and appliance testing across a portfolio.
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